My focus and near canvassing of the entire country of Spain
over the past five years and interest for varied cultural expressions make me
yearn for more of the Spanish influenced world and especially our neighbor to
the south, the vast and diverse beautiful country of Mexico. It also helps that
I have increasingly been gaining a lot of Spanish speaking friends here in
Madison, both at work and social situations.
To begin my foray into learning Spanish I thought a short
formal introduction would be in order; where else to do so than nearby Mexico,
where I could combine a short vacation with a studious immersion into a new
cultural experience. Packing another layer into this planned experience, I
settled for a place that also preserves a veritable indigenous culture that is
living and breathing and not just a relic of the past, the Maya people and their
culture.
This was why Merida, the capital city of the state of Yucatan, in southeast Mexico was the perfect choice. I paired
this off with a choice to attend the Spanish immersion course at the Spanish Center Merida, a school that is run very efficiently by professionally certified Spanish language teachers. To close the loop, I also chose to be accommodated in a Spanish speaking family home for informal day to day interaction in the language and culture of the people as they go about their regular life. Perfecto!
This was why Merida, the capital city of the state of Yucatan, in southeast Mexico was the perfect choice. I paired
this off with a choice to attend the Spanish immersion course at the Spanish Center Merida, a school that is run very efficiently by professionally certified Spanish language teachers. To close the loop, I also chose to be accommodated in a Spanish speaking family home for informal day to day interaction in the language and culture of the people as they go about their regular life. Perfecto!
Arriving late Sunday evening at the Manuel Crescencio Rejon
International Airport and clearing the
custom and immigration protocol in a
matter of minutes, I was picked up by Siegmar, director of the Spanish
language school, Spanish Center Merida, who drove me across town to the home of
my host family in Colonia Itzimna.
The next morning, my host family walked me the four blocks
to the Spanish Center Merida, pointing out the land marks around, especially
the Colonia Itzimna square that is very well kept with an old but well
maintained church that seems to be the center of activities in all the Colonia (district)
squares dotting the city. The Spanish Center Merida is tucked in a quiet mixed
office and residential neighborhood on 13th Street. Its an immaculate building, with broad
paintings on its clear white walls, well ventilated and spotlessly clean. It features
many classrooms upstairs and a big hall downstairs with a bank of computers for
language lab activities set to one corner overlooking a small swimming pool set
right next to the back porch door. There is a melding of homeliness as well as
class room officialdom about the space, very ambient for study and occasional
relaxation for needed breaks.
Being off-season, I had two professors to myself, working me
through grammar, comprehension, phonetics, writing and the nuances that a beginner
needs to have a good grasp to make the language learning an enjoyable
experience. Profesoras Tatiana and Telma, who are professionally certified educators
not only know the subject very well, but have a great deal of experience teaching
foreigners whose culture and language background are markedly different from
Spanish-nuanced Mexican culture.
Not sure what to expect initially I was surprised when they
launched right into Spanish in their
classroom instructions with me. When the
shock wore off, I realized that in a Spanish language immersion course, it was
the best way to learn the language rather than the irony of being taught
Spanish in English. With that mental adjustment it surprisingly became easier following
and comprehending the instructions in Spanish. That truthfully surprised me. To
ensure the knowledge they were imparting were sinking in, we ended everyday
with home work, or Tarea as it is called that I was assigned to be turned in
the next day.
The informal part of the immersion program continued at home
as I chat with my host family over lunches and dinners and routine house
banter. We also regularly drove around town visiting cultural sights, malls,
plazas and neighborhood concert venues around the city. The exposure and
hearing people speak and interact without affectation reinforced the formal
lessons in language and culture earlier discussed in class.
It was an unforgettable even if eerie experience to think,
talk and carry on daily tasks in a language you are not conversant. But it challenged
me to communicate differently and forego that which I could not easily express.
It also reinforced the age old truism that you long comprehend a language
before you could actually speak it. Slowly people I encountered on the streets
started reacting to me very positively on noticing my attempts to reach out and
communicate in their language. Especially folks at the stores I frequented, bus
and cab drivers as well as regular folks I ask directions on walking about
town.
Not once did I get a negative reaction from anyone, not even
the stare strangers occasionally got in foreign lands. To the credit of Merida,
I find the people extremely friendly, polite and the city was particularly very
safe and easy to navigate, day or night. Believe me, I tested the limit and
came out very impressed.
The cultural hub of the city centered around the downtown
district formally known as Centro The grid pattern, age of the
building and general ambience of El Centro leaves no doubt that that was were
the city originated and thrived before its further expansion in all directions.
The core of this historic district is the Plaza Grande, which is the central
plaza with all the primary institutions that stamp the officialdom of the city
from the ancient times to the present day. On different sides of the big square
plaza looking in are the Cathedral of San Idelfonso,
that was built between 1561 and 1598 and reputed to be the the oldest
cathedral on the American continent. It was like a phoenix that was built with
stones from ruined Mayan temples and pyramids.
The 16th century Spanish conqueror and ‘founder’
of Merida has his family house, Casa de Montejo overlooking the square from the
south flank. The original façade of the house is still intact but pats of the
interior now contain a bank and an obvious museum preserving its history.
On the north and western flank of the square facing into the
plaza is the Governor’s office and the city hall or the Palacio Municipal. Inside
the interior walls of the Governor’s office building are elaborate murals
depicting various historical scenes from the history of the city of Merida.
As expected, the Plaza Grande is ringed with shops and
restaurants and other entertainment venues that draw scores of city folks and
both domestic and international tourists to soak in its vibrancy and charm. The
relaxed life and pace of the city is most noticeable at night as hundreds of
people lounge around the plaza, shooting breeze or enjoying a love rendezvous,
in unique chairs that are made of concrete and linked together for direct
private conversation or stolen kisses right there in the open. On Sunday
evenings, elaborate stages are set up at one flank of the plaza featuring live
bands and public dancing that further confirms that the people know when to let
their hair down and make merry until the start of the next week.
It is said that over 60% of the residents of the city are of
the Maya indigenous heritage. The evidence
is so obvious by the distinct
features that are noticeable. But of course not every one of those has total
Mayan blood so you could also notice a blend of multi-ethnic features of
others. There is no mistaking the fact that all of the people are proud of
their city and generally have the same welcoming embrace towards guests in
their midst.
Without prompting as I took in the gentle breeze caressing
the Plaza Grande, some Mayan folks sat
near me and noticing that I am a foreigner took time to tell me about their
culture, their struggle with non-Mayan Mexicans who some curiously referred to
as Mexicans, as though they are distinct from them, and also proudly expressed
the reach of the Mayan culture that extends southward beyond Mexico into
Guatemala, Belize, Honduras and other neighboring Mexican states of Campeche,
Quintana Roo and Chiapas. They recommended some of their meals that I must try,
as I indeed had tried and enjoyed Pollo Pibil and Huevos Motulenos. They capped
our conversation with a recommendation that I buy and take a Hammock home with
me to to the USA.
To further appreciate the Mayan culture and life even
without visiting their intricate pyramids and other structures are Parque Las
Americas (The Americas Park) and the Maya Museum. This not even counting the
intricate Maya sculptures at roundabouts and major road intersections in the
city. I will definitely return to Merida.
Postscript: Forgot to properly set my camera date stamp, which stamped 2008 on the pictures. That is wrong. The pictures were all taken in April 2013.